MANILA, PHILIPPINES — On the second floor of Mattheus building in Poblacion, plastic crates pile up, and drums are turned over to serve as tables for the guests of Compañeros, a new challenger to the Fil-Mex fare in the district. The taqueria-carinderia concept takes inspiration from New York food trucks and kanto street food, evidenced by the spot’s style choices: rich graffiti, a repurposed steel roof, and neon signs.
Just below the dining area is the open kitchen, where the meat is meticulously sliced and doused in sauce, and tortillas line the griddle waiting for their fill. The husband-wife owners, Philip Gonda and Regine Estillore-Gonda, explain their vision for the brand: Filipino food forward.
“People have the tendency to say na pag Pinoy food, it’s just so basic but sa totoo lang (in reality,) it’s so special. There’s something different about it, and we want to elevate it,” Regine said.
With that premise, tacos naturally became the center stage for their love of Filipino cuisine and nod to neighborhood taquerias in Mexico. With five variants — some more familiar than others: the quesabirria and al pastor — each taco order comes in hefty portions with mean salsas in either roja or verde, and lacto-fermented fruit.
The single-minded choice to cook the pork in trompo yields toasted yet tender meat wedged between the delicate corn tortillas. Consistent in their menu is a bold kick of spice, if not borderline assaultive, best washed down with their melon horchata and addictive agua fresca.
Melding down two influences is nothing rare in the current food scene, but Compañeros manages to strike more hits than misses. The Tapa Carne Asada puts too much of a fight, but their redemption comes in the Filipino-leaning options such as the Al Pastor Filipino Pork BBQ and OG Pork Sisig. The two bear textures of crunch and moist held together by the tart dressing.
Better is their crispy fish tacos, made with catfish, beer-battered and fried. They are kept simple and light, balancing the zesty flavor of the mangga ensalada pico de gallo.
The dishes, curated by Chef Kevin David of Idalia Manila, are designed to be eaten heartily whether in the dripping consomme of the birria or the deliberately soggy chilaquiles. Wait until the entradas of chicharron bulaklak dipped in their chunky guacamole to confirm that this place will be filled with patrons in no time.
The chef explained, “The creative side actually comes out by making sure nothing overpowers the other when it comes to having the perfect marriage of flavors. At the end of the day, it’s all about good food.”
In the once turf of the hole-in-the-wall that blesses the tacos and the current home of the street tacos, Compañeros’ game to prove that delicious dishes can be found in simple and charming spots warrants attention and where you’d want to be if you want to get your hands dirty.
Compañeros is located in the Matheus Building in Poblacion, Makati. It is open Tuesdays through Thursdays (5PM to 12 MN), Fridays through Saturdays (5PM to 2AM), and Sundays and Mondays.
